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"Under Ten, With Tax"
Every wine reviewed was purchased for $10 or less, including tax. All wines have some merit and are worth considering. I will not post reviews of mediocre wines because life is too short!
Most wines are widely available. However, I have flagged those that seem to be exclusive to Trader Joe's, in case there is no store in your area.
If you enjoy these descriptions, check out my fiction collection.
Wine Reviews
Red Wines
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White Wines
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You can't go wrong with theseI have found Little Penguin, Yellow Tail and Columbia Crest Two Vines consistently to be the best wines for about seven dollars a bottle. Little Penguin and Yellow Tail, in my opinion, are the most flavorful and well-structured of the mass-produced Australian wines. Little Penguin reds tend to have a bit more body, while Yellow Tail reds are a bit juicier. The Rosemount Diamond Label and Lindemans Bin Series wines are consistently decent, though not exciting. With few exceptions, Alice White, Black Opal and other Aussies in this price range are thinner and not as rewarding.
The Columbia Crest Two Vines lineup, from Washington, gives you a completely different experience. They are sturdier and yet just as smooth as the Australians. The Shiraz is the shining star from this label. They also make a juicy blend called Vineyard 10, a decent Merlot-Cabernet and an acceptable Merlot. I don't believe I've tried their Cabernet, but the night is young and the liquor stores are still open.
2005 Pacific Crest Merlot Paso Robles - Trader Joe's
If you like a smooth, everyday red with enough girth to hold your interest, this is a very good choice. I've tried three bottles of the 2005 - several months apart - and each time it delivered above its six-dollar price tag. I took a chance on this wine initially because it bears the Paso Robles designation. In recent years, Paso Robles (California's central coast) has produced highly regarded wines in the upper price ranges. I wanted to see if the entire area was magical, like rock groups from Seattle or Liverpool.
As usual, my pedestrian taste buds do not detect a particular berry. I'm sure they've been destroyed over the years by Reese's Peanut Butter Cups. What I can say is that it's fragrant and cheerful. Maybe a touch of spice? Again, I'll have to blame my ignorance on the Hershey Corporation.
Drinking the wine by itself is pleasant, but I'm anxious to see if it will blossom with tonight's menu: grilled top sirloin, yellow rice, green beans, and grilled red onions and yellow peppers. No matter which of these foods it follows, the taste becomes incrementally more appealing. Not bad for six dollars. High recommended for the wealth-challenged.
2005 Red Diamond Cabernet Washington - Trader Joe's
This is a very flavorful wine, with a delightful character all its own. It's the kind that could disappear before you know it's gone. I had to peek at the label because I needed help understanding just why I found it so appealing: "Layers of berry, cherry and toasty oak flavors."
Cherry! That's why I'm grinning from ear to ear. It's not a fruit I normally stumble across (no pun intended) in the cabernet styles that I prefer. Note to self: pursue cherry-laced cabernets. The "toasty oak" eludes me, though. I'm fond of both in a cabernet - or a good chardonnay, for that matter - so I most definitely would be cognizant of a toasty oak presence in my dining room. I'm quibbling, though. I look forward to buying Red Diamond again.
The Big Red Monster (no vintage) California Red Wine, purchased and quaffed in 2008
Syrah, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah
The first thing that impressed me about this particular monster was its deep, rich color. With red wine, I don't want to see the bottom of a glass. I don't care if a strand of congealed sulfites performs a dance of death beneath the surface, as long as they are not visible.
From an inside-the-mouth perspective, The Big Red Monster lives up to its billing. It is the prototypical fruit-forward, nuance-buried California blend. To test its staying power, I decided to record my impressions two days after opening it (and vacuum pumping it closed). The label promises "blackcurrant and cherry aromas." I can vouch for cherry, but I can't say that I've ever had blackcurrants - unless an aunt brought over a basket and I sampled one just to be courteous. Regardless of the fruit descriptors that I or anyone else may assign, the bottom line is that I would not hesitate to buy this wine again. While it isn't the most memorable blend I've ever tasted at this price point, it's certainly fun being in the same room with it.
2005 Dynamite Vineyards Merlot North Coast, California
The first sip recalls a perfectly acceptable Bordeaux - the kind you might buy two years out of college, not first-growth grapes from a 600-year-old appellation that requires a barn to store their awards. I was encouraged to find an expensive-tasting wine for eight bucks. However, subsequent samplings brought me down to earth. A very smooth mouthful of cherries, mind you, but not the elusive "next level" that you will find in an Under Twenty, With Tax column.
There is much to like about this Merlot. It is easy to drink, has no rough edges, and doesn't seem to care if you keep it idle for five minutes. It knows you'll be back soon. The more you return, though, the thinner this wine becomes. This was my experience with two different bottles. I'm not sure I would buy it again - unless I'm sharing it with comrades who will enjoy that initial French buzz with me.
2005 Tin Roof Cellars Merlot California
Like a tin roof, this Merlot is functional but not distinctive. It delivers the promised "plush cherry and plum flavors" as advertised on the label. Sip after sip, it brings a faint smile to the sipper. Unlike some wines in this price point, it tastes just as good without food as with food. That's important when you're, say, reading The Economist while your spouse is indulging her passion for creating the perfect meal to complement tonight's wine selection.
I appear to be waffling, don't I? Would I recommend this wine or would I not? Before I answer, let me digress. I bought this eight-dollar wine at Costo for two reasons: (1) my nephew recommended it, and (2) the wine guy on duty affirmed that it would be a good purchase. However, I also bought a 2005 Kirkland Merlot - Costco's private-label brand - for the same price. The Kirkland is from Napa Valley and tasted quite a bit fuller, more like a Napa cabernet. Compared to a tin roof in a dusty Western town, this is a mansard roof in the heart of Paris.
Bottom line: If you have a Costco membership, fill your cart with the 2005 Kirkland Merlot. On the other hand, if you find the 2005 Tin Roof Cellars Merlot at a store that lets anyone wander their aisles, try a bottle. As long as you keep your expectations modest, you will not be disenchanted.
2005 Panilonco Reserve Merlot / Malbec Colchagua Valley, Chile
60% Merlot 40% Malbec - Trader Joe's
This is a very friendly wine. However, it is a shy friend. Rather than chasing you down the block to say hello, it waits at a busy intersection for you to arrive and greets you with a smile. I can't precisely define what fruits are swirling inside my mouth as I write this, but they are definitely in the berry family. The label assigns "ripe fruit flavors" to the Merlot and "blackberry notes" to the Malbec. Whatever. The more I drink, the happier I am that I only paid five bucks for a perfectly acceptable everyday wine.
In case you're not familiar with Malbec, it's a fleshy grape referred to as an Argentinian equivalent to Syrah. Malbec is the country's signature grape - its calling card to the rest of the world, and one of the few places where it generally is not buried in a blend.
2005 Sebeka Cabernet Pinotage Western Cape, South Africa
Ahhhh! Who doesn't enjoy the smell of a wood fire on a chilly evening? And so it is with this distinctive, smoky blend from halfway around the world. How do they get it to a grocery store in the Midwest for eight bucks, considering the number of business entities that must be involved in its transport? I suppose that's none of my concern, for I am the consumer who they've all been working in concert to please.
Although the label did not suggest this, I wanted to see if this wine would pair well with chicken thighs baked at 375 degrees for 40 minutes, brushed with olive oil and seasoned with oregano and a lemon-garlic blend. The answer? Most emphatically! The smokiness absorbs the fowl's essence, yet not in the "hostile takeover" sense. They are helping one another reach their full potential for my benefit. Pinotage, by the way, is South Africa's answer to Zinfandel. According to the label, the grape adds "intense red berry notes and complex structure." No argument here.
The more I sipped this wine, the thinner and more one-dimensional it became. The taste is all on the surface. Obviously, it has other plans tonight and doesn't care to linger in my mouth longer than absolutely necessary. My suggestion is to share this with friends so you can enjoy its initial burst of good cheer - and not have to drink more than one glass.
2005 Velvet Moon Cabernet California - Trader Joe's
I almost did not review this wine because I could only think of one word to describe it: thin. It offered a faint hint of fruit, but I could not identify it. I was tasting this wine without food and it simply did not pair well with the naked palate. Where was the depth that cabernet is supposed to deliver? After two nights of failing to enjoy it, I decided to see if it improved with the help of grilled salmon, baked sweet potatoes with cranberries and walnuts, and spinach accented with shallots.
Yes, indeed. The cabernet is noticeably fuller. It takes the salmon by the fins and says, "I don't know if you're seeing anyone, but I'd like to hang out with you more often. I think we're good for one another." Still no discernable fruit, though. Just plain old red wine. And it did not awaken when swished with either the sweet potatoes or spinach.
Which leaves me with the enduring question that all modest wage-earners ask about most of their wines: "What were they thinking!" My advice is to cut back 20 percent on the number of grapes per vine to allow the fruit to better express itself. Raise the price to compensate for the reduced volume. The result will be a more pleasing wine at the same profit margin. Then, instead of feeling like I poured six dollars down the drain, I'd feel like I was getting decent value for $7.20.
2004 Tiz Red Red Wine California
63% Merlot, 22% Cabernet, 15% Syrah
"Who are you?" I've never asked a wine that question before. Three sips later, Tiz Red still didn't provide an answer. That doesn't mean one cannot enjoy it. In fact, it's quite pleasant and well structured. Definitely not a weakling at the mercy of playground bullies. A bit smoky, but that's the only discernable quality. I reached out to my wife for ideas. She thinks it's fruity and compared it to Pinot Noir. "A white wine drinker would like this," she offered.
Maybe that's the approach I should take. If I pretend I have been drinking Vouvray and return to the Tiz Red, what new impressions await me? Drum roll please...
Hey, this has some strucutre! Solid as a linebacker in a Division II college. Doesn't quite have the tools to play in the Big Ten, but certainly an athlete. Keep in mind that this last statement comes from a guy who just drank an imaginary glass of Vouvray. Had I just finished an imaginary Cabernet, I might tell the linebacker to return to high school.
2007 Hogue Late Harvest White Riesling Columbia Valley, Washington
Vintage after vintage, this is a reliably consistent mouthful of syrup. No effervescence like some Rieslings that are not quite ready for prime time. This wine was sampled just a few months after picking, stomping, stirring, storing, shipping and whatever else it takes to bring wine from the vine to the glass. (Dear Reader, if you played a part in any of these activities, I want to personally thank you. You've brought a smile to my face, and please know that I do not take your labor or supply chain management skills for granted.)
When I say "syrup," I really mean "honeyed peach and apricot flavors." The label provides fair warning. If you do not like sweet wine, then steer clear. Hogue produces a drier Riesling that you may find more acceptable. But must we always settle for what is familiar and comfortable? Assuming you enjoy the occasional chocolate nougat, or perhaps simply a dollop of sorbet between meals to cleanse the palate, why not parlay this indulgence to your white wine regimen? The Hogue Late Harvest White Riesling is a great place to start.
2006 Columbia-Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay Columbia Valley, Washington
Are you tired of citrus-dominated Chardonnays that tempt you to become a winemaker so you can offer the general public an affordable creamy-oaky-buttery style that was prevalent just a few years ago? Me, too. That's why I'm so taken with this release. More and more wineries are switching to a cleaner approach, which means aging in stainless steel barrels instead of the more costly oak barrels that impart the rich flavors and textures associated with "big" Chardonnays. So, it's getting harder to find these Chardonnays under ten dollars.
Part of me wants to haul cases of the 2006 Grand Estates door to door in a wagon, selling it at cost, just to share this incredible bargain with others. Another part of me just wants to keep drinking it and marveling at how certain producers can offer such huge quantities of wonderful wine at such a reasonable price. The same holds true for the Grande Estates Merlot and Cabernet. I wish oil companies would adopt the Columbia-Crest business model...
If you're a smooth, full-bodied, sun-drenched Chardonnay lover, buy all of this wine that your budget allows. I can't wait to see if the 2007 is as good as the 2006.
2006 Columbia-Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine Washington: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon
This new blend from the giant Columbia-Crest winery takes you by the hand and says, "Let me show you Vineyard 10. Don't worry about the other nine - they were just for research. I think we nailed a soft, fruity, well-balanced patio pleaser. Do you agree?" Oddly enough, I had those very words on the tip of my tongue. I would add "fragrant, silky and more-than-one-dimensional." Turning to the back label, I discover that I could have also added "flavors of apple, pear and melon."
The more I nip, the more I want to wander through Vineyard 10 and meet the winemaking team. Why did they choose these particular grapes, and how did they arrive at the final percentages of each? Did this go on for years? Were focus groups utilized? While awaiting those answers, I tested a glass with dinner on two consecutive nights: grilled chicken burgers and baked lake trout. The soft, silky, fruity, fragrant patio pleaser (featuring aromas of apple, pear and melon) complemented the food, but was not elevated by it. Therefore, I would recommend pairing this wine simply with a glass and a mouth.
This is a very intriguing wine for the price. If you only have six dollars plus tax - and all your bills for the month have been paid, your family provided for, and you know where your next meal is coming from - grab it by the neck and take it to the nearest cash register.
2005 Honey Moon Viognier California - Trader Joe's
Instantly, you know this wine is your friend. It will do everything it can to cheer you up. In fact, with each sip, it delivers a bouquet of fresh flowers. There are more fragrant, complex and expensive Viogniers available, but this one is perfectly acceptable for a summer evening. It is not thin and one-dimensional, like many reasonably priced whites. The longer this wine is out of the fridge, the more open and generous it becomes. Kind of like the infamous "third date" with your new special friend.
Backstory: I was introduced to the Viognier grape at a wine tasting with neighbors. I had never encountered a wine so fragrant and reminiscent of my youthful gambols through the meadows of Kenosha County, Wisconsin, praising the arrival of spring and all its promises.