Wine Reviews

I have found Little Penguin, Yellow Tail and Columbia Crest Two Vines consistently to be the best wines for about seven dollars a bottle. Little Penguin and Yellow Tail, in my opinion, are the most flavorful and well-structured of the mass-produced Australian wines. Little Penguin reds tend to have a bit more body, while Yellow Tail reds are a bit juicier. The Rosemount Diamond Label and Lindemans Bin Series wines are consistently decent, though not exciting. With few exceptions, Alice White, Black Opal and other Aussies in this price range are thinner and not as rewarding.

The Columbia Crest Two Vines lineup, from Washington, gives you a completely different experience. They are sturdier and yet just as smooth as the Australians. The Shiraz is the shining star from this label. They also make a juicy blend called Vineyard 10, a decent Merlot-Cabernet and an acceptable Merlot. I don't believe I've tried their Cabernet, but the night is young and the liquor stores are still open.

BULLETIN

I generally do not review “how low can you go” Australian wines because they're so plentiful and almost always a good bargain. I have to make an exception with the 2008 Little Penguin Shiraz. This vibrant, deep red beauty is at once juicy, fleshy, smoky and yummy. If it were a book, you'd read every word, reread your favorite passages, and buy it for someone you care about. I found a 1.5 liter bottle on sale for $7.99. After I enjoyed an evening's allotment, I returned to buy the remaining two on the shelf. I'll wait for the regular $8.99 price to drop back down to $7.99, then buy as many bottles as will fit in my Honda Civic. Try it in a freshly cleaned house with an early autumn breeze wafting through the living room windows.

Don't walk past the 2008 Yellow Tail Merlot. It's quite succulent.

If you can still find the 2007 Little Penguin Cabernet Sauvignon, you'll be treated to a graceful melding of rich, fruity flavors with a solid underpinning. Think Beach Boys harmonies over The Rolling Stones rhythm section. January 21-22, 2009 will go down in history as two of the most rewarding consecutive week nights I've ever spent pouring cheap red liquor into a glass. It was sublime without food, with food, and while digesting food. It also paired very well with the daily newspaper after dinner.

While we're on the subject, the 2007 Banrock Station Shiraz is another delightful bargain-priced Aussie red.

2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz

McLaren Vale, Australia

What delicious flavors am I savoring? I failed to discern them last night, so I thought I'd try again tonight. I'm stumped! At times like this, I wish I could pour a few drops into a Wine Reviewer's Assistant device and instantly have the answer. I'm pretending to do that now, as I write this. The device tells me: "Cherry on lead guitar, with blackberry bass lines accompanied by peppery drum fills, for heaven's sake! What kind of a wine reviewer are you?" (I'm testing the British female with a condescending tone.)

Whatever fruits are trapped in this bottle, they are lush, ripe and ready to please. A thick, fleshy structure allows them to shine. This wine is obviously delighted to be part of my dinner (vegetarian sub from Jimmy John's, est. 1983.) The label does not reveal any details about the grapes. However, it did say the Stump Jump is an Australian plough that can jump over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees. I always wondered what jumped over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees...

2008 Kirkland Signature Merlot

Columbia Valley, Washington (Costco)

Highly recommended if you prefer a wine that fills your mouth to the point where talking becomes problematic. True, all wine "fills the mouth" if you put enough inside it. This one feels like the mouth is full when, in fact, it's only half full. Logic says it should cost twice as much as a thinner wine, but you're wrong. This one set me back $7.99 plus tax. Gotta love Costco's business model!

The 2008 Merlot is so satisfying that I don't care which fruits or other flavors are busy making me smug. I will not even tiptoe from the living room couch to the adjoining dining room (someday I'll have a great room) to read the label. It's not that I'm lazy; I just don't want you to focus on a particular berry or spice. That will only delay your trip to Costco.

2008 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja

Paso Robles, California: Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Zinfandel-Syrah (Trader Joe's)

Delicious. Juicy. Fruity. Fresh. Charming. Delectable. Mellifluous. Thrilling. Happy. Smile. Cheap. (See my review of the 2007 version, which omits the Zinfandel.)

2008 Alamos Malbec

Mendoza, Argentina

Will you accept my apology for not reviewing this wine sooner? It is satisfying vintage after vintage. The 2008 is a typical offering: broad-shouldered, mouth-watering, mysterious and, most importantly, a good value. No fruit rises to the surface, so one cannot simultaneously smile and shout "Boysenberries!" as if solving a Holmes/Watson mystery in foggy London Town. The label only reveals "balanced and full-flavored." No need to go on and on. Balanced, full-flavored and $7.98 on sale are pretty compelling reasons to recommend Alamos Malbec.

2008 Red Truck

California: Syrah-Petite Sirah-Cabernet Franc-Petite Verdot

Thickberry. There, it's finally off my chest. I have continually struggled to find ways to describe flavorful red wine when I cannot pin down a specific berry. The 2008 Red Truck blend of four thickberry grapes has an earthiness that perfectly accompanies lasagna. In fact, it makes lasagna sing an aria in which the soprano signals the tenor hither for on-stage tomfoolerly. Know what I'm saying?

Red Truck consistently delivers fine value with each new release. I challenge you to taste the 2008 or any other vintage and not mutter, "I made a good decision, gosh darn it! I'm proud of myself." I have muttered these very lines many times since I first discovered Red Truck.

2007 Snap Dragon Cabernet Sauvignon

California

More often than not, if a wine label promises "deep flavors of cherry, blackberry and spice with a hint of currant and smooth tannins," I'm on board. I agree with the description, but would add "smooth, elegant and as satisfying as holding someone's hand on the way into and out of the cinema."

Although I wouldn't state this on the label, I could go a step further and say the 2007 Snap Dragon Cab makes me feel like my football team just won by 10 points, or my basketball team won by seven points, or my baseball team won by three runs, or my soccer team won by two goals. Not huge margins, but very comfortable.

2007 Coppola Rosso

California: Zinfandel-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon

Proprietor Francis Ford Coppola claims this is a wine for everyday life. He's right. There is nothing exciting about the 2007 Rosso, or any other vintage for that matter. However, you could pick many lesser wines for this price point ($6.79 on sale). Dear readers, know that for every wine reviewed on this site, I drink hundreds of bottles that do not make it to print. Well, maybe not hundreds. More like six or seven. These rejects are too thin and one-dimensional to recommend. This one is half a step above, with its zinfandel-driven zing. Just enough spice to keep your interest. And it has decent depth. Think of it as a 2.5 star romantic comedy film -- satisfying, but not a classic worthy of preserving in the Library of Congress. Certainly not "Caddyshack" or "Stripes."

2007 Red Diamond Merlot

Washington State

A fruitier, juicier, more festive wine is difficult to imagine. It's not a full-throated Napa or a fleshy Chilean Merlot. You might say it's their second cousin. Or I might. You might also say (or I might) that it's a mustached uncle of an Australian mass-produced Merlot. Pay an extra two dollars for Red Diamond. Your throat will thank you. For those who want to know what this wine tastes like, I will defer to the label: "A polished wine with softly-spiced black cherry, berry and fruit flavors." No qualms there, except I was taught that adverbs (e.g., softly) do not require a hyphen.

2007 Casa LaJoya Gran Reserve Merlot

Colchagua Valley, Chile

Fire-roasted gummy bears on the nose, supported by gorgeous layers of rhubarb cobbler, and finishing with intense hints of a Dominican Republic cigar harvest. I'm kidding, but hopefully you have a general idea of this earthy, spicy, full-throated Merlot. The good Chilean Merlots I've had resemble Cabernet Sauvignon with their soil-happy essence. This wine softened considerably with grilled baby back spare ribs, settling into a more traditional California-style Merlot. With or without food, you can't go wrong.

2007 Trentatre Rosso

Italy: Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Montepulciano (Trader Joe's)

The 2007 Trentatre Rosso gives me that distinctive "I'm drinking Italian wine" sensation. The soil of The Old Country™ is calling me through this semi-full-bodied wine. You know when you're painting a room and you need a ladder for a little strip that's just out of reach? A full-size ladder is overkill, but a two-rung step stool is too short and dangerous if you step on the top. A four-rung step stool, however, is perfect for the job if you step on Rung 2. That pretty much sums up this wine. Ideal to the task at hand -- in this case, enjoying a red blend for a modest sum.

I anticipate your question: "Nice analogy, Joe, but what does it taste like?" My reply: Fragrant to the nose, cherry-esque in the mouth, silky in the throat. My wife said it tastes like cough syrup. She's right. It does have a Robitussin® essence. Though not in a bad way. The label says it was aged in oak for six months. I would have preferred seven or eight, but if that would cause the price to rise, I'm okay with six.

2007 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja

Paso Robles, California: Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Trader Joe's)

Mouthfeel. Need I go on? Or have I persuaded you to try this delicious five-dollar bargain? As the label accurately says, this is a “big, jammy wine that's bursting with black cherry and raspberry flavors.” I first encountered Tres Pinos with the 2005 vintage, which resembled the 2007. The vintage in between was rather pedestrian and therefore did not qualify for an “Under Ten, With Tax” review.

Try as I might, I cannot find a fault with this wine. The merlot, cab and syrah hold hands together and skip along the boulevard in unison like best friends forever. No grape (or friend) towers above the others. If I were hauled down to the slammer, hooked up to a lie detector machine and forced to choose the most predominant one, I would have to say syrah. But I wouldn't want to. So if you happen to cross my path, please don't press me on this issue. Thank you. And enjoy!

2006 Gnarly Head Cabernet

California

I like this wine so much that I walked from the living room to the dining room to fetch a pen and notebook -- the tools I used to write this review. I don't do that for wines that are merely sippable or quaint. It must have a richness beyond that of the three-minute pop song. This one has two guitar solos and a keyboard solo (think Deep Purple's "Maybe I'm a Leo" from the Machine Head album). Since no fruit or flavor screamed for my attention, I asked my wife to pass judgment on the eight wine label descriptors.

Aromas: Blackberries (yes). Cedar (yes). Vanilla (yes). Cigar box (she has never taken the time to shove her face in a cigar box).

Palate: Rich, juicy cherries (yes). Blueberries (yes). Cocoa (not!).

2006 Columbia-Crest Grande Estates Cabernet

Columbia Valley, Washington

A light, juicy white wine at a reasonable price is often called a “patio pounder.” Presumably, the quality/price ratio is so absurd that you're compelled to invite neighbors to your patio until they stumble home. Since I don't have a patio, I searched extensively for a red wine equivalent, and I found it. This 2006 cab is my new “armchair annihilator.”

There's no better way to describe this succulent cab. Look up “fruit forward” in your wine encyclopedia and you'll see this label smiling back. My early schooling taught me that good cabs had to be earthy and their flavors subliminal. You weren't supposed to grin when you took your first sip. The wine had to get to know you before gradually revealing its true character. Like a house cat. This cab doesn't apologize for its freshness. It's a twelve-year-old girl practicing cartwheels in the back yard.

You will find hints of smokiness and depth, but don't get too carried away. This wine is here to make you feel sinful at having found such a bargain - and grateful that you have an armchair from which to annihilate it.

2006 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon

Washington State

Washington produces very distinctive wines, and the Red Diamond cab is a classic example. In my 30-plus years as a moderate wine drinker (it hasn't always been easy), I have never tasted a California cab remotely like this one. Cherry-infused flavors grab your necktie and say, “Enjoy life while you can. Get rid of your confining shirts and ties. Wear sweaters or pullovers from now on.”

To put it another way, this is a juicy, velvety wine that wants to be semi-sweet, but knows better. There are at least two layers at work here, though it's difficult to tell when you're drinking it. The solid structure holds up until the last drop has been enjoyed. Very highly recommended. The 2005 was just as good, though the cherry was even more pronounced.

2006 Epicuro Nero D'Avola

Sicily (Trader Joe's)

This wine makes me feel like I'm nine years old, flying down a playground slide head-first. There's no time to question why it's so much fun. It all happens so fast and effortlessly. Back then, I don't recall any grapes from Sicily contributing to my glee. I'm glad I waited until I could fully appreciate their fermented characteristics. See my review of the 2006 Feudo Arancio for a sound-bite on Nero D'Avola, which is slowly becoming my go-to grape.

I found the Epicuro for six bucks, and it's remarkable for that price. It is not thin and mono-dimensional like so many others at the low end of the vino spectrum. I concur with the label copy: “A beautiful rich, bright garnet colour and full bouquet redolent of berries, cherries and spices.” Not sure what spices they're talking about. Certainly not oregano or cumin powder.

2006 Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola

Sicily

Nero D'Avola is a Sicilian grape that produces a dark, concentrated and somewhat earthy wine that is refreshingly different from other wines I have tried. A little spicy, but at the same time silky smooth. This is a solid, well-crafted red that has no apparent weaknesses. It doesn't knock you out of your chair with astonishment; it keeps you in your chair wishing this wine had no calories or consequences.

The Feudo Arancio is quite charming on its own. In fact, very charming. The bottle was quickly disappearing before I had the presence of mind to cork it for the night. I suspected it would be food-friendly, so I invited it to accompany pasta and red sauce the following day. The wine jumped from 5.5 to 6.5 on the complexity scale, as I recall from my notes. Incidentally, three days after opening the bottle, it lost none of its freshness or charm. Way to go, Sicily!

2005 Pacific Crest Merlot

Paso Robles, California (Trader Joe's)

If you like a smooth, everyday red with enough girth to hold your interest, this is a very good choice. I've tried three bottles of the 2005 - several months apart - and each time it delivered above its six-dollar price tag. I took a chance on this wine initially because it bears the Paso Robles designation. In recent years, Paso Robles (California's central coast) has produced highly regarded wines in the upper price ranges. I wanted to see if the entire area was magical, like rock groups from Seattle or Liverpool.

As usual, my pedestrian taste buds do not detect a particular berry. I'm sure they've been destroyed over the years by Reese's Peanut Butter Cups. What I can say is that it's fragrant and cheerful. Maybe a touch of spice? Again, I'll have to blame my ignorance on the Hershey Corporation.

Drinking the wine by itself is pleasant, but I'm anxious to see if it will blossom with tonight's menu: grilled top sirloin, yellow rice, green beans, and grilled red onions and yellow peppers. No matter which of these foods it follows, the taste becomes incrementally more appealing. Not bad for six dollars. Highly recommended for the wealth-challenged.

The Big Red Monster (no vintage)

California Red Wine, purchased and quaffed in 2008

Syrah, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah

The first thing that impressed me about this particular monster was its deep, rich color. With red wine, I don't want to see the bottom of a glass. I don't care if a strand of congealed sulfites performs a dance of death beneath the surface, as long as they are not visible.

From an inside-the-mouth perspective, The Big Red Monster lives up to its billing. It is the prototypical fruit-forward, nuance-buried California blend. To test its staying power, I decided to record my impressions two days after opening it (and vacuum pumping it closed). The label promises "blackcurrant and cherry aromas." I can vouch for cherry, but I can't say that I've ever had blackcurrants - unless an aunt brought over a basket and I sampled one just to be courteous. Regardless of the fruit descriptors that I or anyone else may assign, the bottom line is that I would not hesitate to buy this wine again. While it isn't the most memorable blend I've ever tasted at this price point, it's certainly fun being in the same room with it.

Frontier Red (no vintage)

Lot No. 81, California Red Wine, purchased and quaffed in 2008

Syrah, Grenache, Petit Sirah, Mourvedre, Cinsaut and Carignan

Fess Parker Winery calls this blend “The Great American Value.” I would unflinchingly agree with the marketing hype. Lush gobs of fruit are evident from the first sip, and they don't go away quietly. This is one of the chewiest reds I've reviewed in this column. It's not the smoothest. In fact, its essence is captured in the picture of Davy Crockett on the label - complete with coonskin cap and Wild West rifle. This is definitely a rustic wine. Frontier Red is sumptuous with butternut squash lasagna, but I'm sure Davy would have enjoyed it just as much with rabbit stew.

Truth in Reviewing Disclaimer: I bought two bottles at the same store. The first seemed more vibrant and racy than the second, enjoyed a few weeks later. I would dub both a great American value, so to speak.

2005 Full Belly Red

California

I will buy almost any red blend from California, hoping to find the perfect combination. It's like a putting jig saw puzzle together, except much easier and more enjoyable. Six hundred pieces? Come on, who has that kind of patience in the 21st century? The 2005 Full Belly Red does not specify the grapes on the label, which I think is discourteous to the consumer. To the wine reviewer, it's a refreshing change. It forces one to describe the taste without a frame of reference. Now that I've whipped you into a frenzy of expectation, let me tell you about my latest adventure in the world of California red blends...

A little sweeter than I care for. Heavier than a Pinot Noir, but not by much. No fruit sensation leaps to make headlines. If I had to pick one, I'd say raspberry or strawberry. Although I probably won't buy it again, I am including it as an Under Ten With Tax recommendation out of respect for my legion of admirers who prefer a lighter style red. “Full Belly” may be accurate (if you drink enough), but I certainly wouldn't call it “Full Mouth.” Pleasant, though, in a settling-for-Pepsi-because-they-don't-offer-Coke kind of way.

2005 Dynamite Vineyards Merlot

North Coast, California

The first sip recalls a perfectly acceptable Bordeaux - the kind you might buy two years out of college, not first-growth grapes from a 600-year-old appellation that requires a barn to store their awards. I was encouraged to find an expensive-tasting wine for eight bucks. However, subsequent samplings brought me down to earth. A very smooth mouthful of cherries, mind you, but not the elusive "next level" that you will find in an Under Twenty, With Tax column.

There is much to like about this Merlot. It is easy to drink, has no rough edges, and doesn't seem to care if you keep it idle for five minutes. It knows you'll be back soon. The more you return, though, the thinner this wine becomes. This was my experience with two different bottles. I'm not sure I would buy it again - unless I'm sharing it with comrades who will enjoy that initial French buzz with me.

2005 Tin Roof Cellars Merlot

California

Like a tin roof, this Merlot is functional but not distinctive. It delivers the promised "plush cherry and plum flavors" as advertised on the label. Sip after sip, it brings a faint smile to the sipper. Unlike some wines in this price point, it tastes just as good without food as with food. That's important when you're, say, reading The Economist while your spouse is indulging her passion for creating the perfect meal to complement tonight's wine selection.

I appear to be waffling, don't I? Would I recommend this wine or would I not? Before I answer, let me digress. I bought this eight-dollar wine at Costo for two reasons: (1) my nephew recommended it, and (2) the wine guy on duty affirmed that it would be a good purchase. However, I also bought a 2005 Kirkland Merlot - Costco's private-label brand - for the same price. The Kirkland is from Napa Valley and tasted quite a bit fuller, more like a Napa cabernet. Compared to a tin roof in a dusty Western town, this is a mansard roof in the heart of Paris.

Bottom line: If you have a Costco membership, fill your cart with the 2005 Kirkland Merlot. On the other hand, if you find the 2005 Tin Roof Cellars Merlot at a store that lets anyone wander their aisles, try a bottle. As long as you keep your expectations modest, you will not be disenchanted.

2005 Panilonco Reserve Merlot / Malbec

Colchagua Valley, Chile: 60% Merlot 40% Malbec (Trader Joe's)

This is a very friendly wine. However, it is a shy friend. Rather than chasing you down the block to say hello, it waits at a busy intersection for you to arrive and greets you with a smile. I can't precisely define what fruits are swirling inside my mouth as I write this, but they are definitely in the berry family. The label assigns "ripe fruit flavors" to the Merlot and "blackberry notes" to the Malbec. Whatever. The more I drink, the happier I am that I only paid five bucks for a perfectly acceptable everyday wine.

In case you're not familiar with Malbec, it's a fleshy grape referred to as an Argentinean equivalent to Syrah. Malbec is the country's signature grape - its calling card to the rest of the world, and one of the few places where it generally is not buried in a blend.

2005 Sebeka Cabernet Pinotage

Western Cape, South Africa

Ahhhh! Who doesn't enjoy the smell of a wood fire on a chilly evening? And so it is with this distinctive, smoky blend from halfway around the world. How do they get it to a grocery store in the Midwest for eight bucks, considering the number of business entities that must be involved in its transport? I suppose that's none of my concern, for I am the consumer who they've all been working in concert to please.

Although the label did not suggest this, I wanted to see if this wine would pair well with chicken thighs baked at 375 degrees for 40 minutes, brushed with olive oil and seasoned with oregano and a lemon-garlic blend. The answer? Most emphatically! The smokiness absorbs the fowl's essence, yet not in the "hostile takeover" sense. They are helping one another reach their full potential for my benefit. Pinotage, by the way, is South Africa's answer to Zinfandel. According to the label, the grape adds "intense red berry notes and complex structure." No argument here.

The more I sipped this wine, the thinner and more one-dimensional it became. The taste is all on the surface. Obviously, it has other plans tonight and doesn't care to linger in my mouth longer than absolutely necessary. My suggestion is to share this with friends so you can enjoy its initial burst of good cheer - and not have to drink more than one glass.

2005 Velvet Moon Cabernet

California (Trader Joe's)

I almost did not review this wine because I could only think of one word to describe it: thin. It offered a faint hint of fruit, but I could not identify it. I was tasting this wine without food and it simply did not pair well with the naked palate. Where was the depth that cabernet is supposed to deliver? After two nights of failing to enjoy it, I decided to see if it improved with the help of grilled salmon, baked sweet potatoes with cranberries and walnuts, and spinach accented with shallots.

Yes, indeed. The cabernet is noticeably fuller. It takes the salmon by the fins and says, "I don't know if you're seeing anyone, but I'd like to hang out with you more often. I think we're good for one another." Still no discernable fruit, though. Just plain old red wine. And it did not awaken when swished with either the sweet potatoes or spinach.

Which leaves me with the enduring question that all modest wage-earners ask about most of their wines: "What were they thinking!" My advice is to cut back 20 percent on the number of grapes per vine to allow the fruit to better express itself. Raise the price to compensate for the reduced volume. The result will be a more pleasing wine at the same profit margin. Then, instead of feeling like I poured six dollars down the drain, I'd feel like I was getting decent value for $7.20.

2004 Tiz Red

Red Wine California: 63% Merlot, 22% Cabernet, 15% Syrah

"Who are you?" I've never asked a wine that question before. Three sips later, Tiz Red still didn't provide an answer. That doesn't mean one cannot enjoy it. In fact, it's quite pleasant and well structured. Definitely not a weakling at the mercy of playground bullies. A bit smoky, but that's the only discernable quality. I reached out to my wife for ideas. She thinks it's fruity and compared it to Pinot Noir. "A white wine drinker would like this," she offered.

Maybe that's the approach I should take. If I pretend I have been drinking Vouvray and return to the Tiz Red, what new impressions await me? Drum roll please...

Hey, this has some structure! Solid as a linebacker in a Division II college. Doesn't quite have the tools to play in the Big Ten, but certainly an athlete. Keep in mind that this last statement comes from a guy who just drank an imaginary glass of Vouvray. Had I just finished an imaginary Cabernet, I might tell the linebacker to return to high school.

2008 Menage a Trois

California: Chardonnay-Moscato-Chenin Blanc

What a delightful white wine, dontcha know? It's cheery from the get-go. And fragrant, too, much like a Viogner. You may or may not know that Moscato is an in-your-face syrupy grape, while Chenin Blanc is best known as the grape behind Vouvray -- the Loire Valley white that offers a wide range on the dry-to-sweet spectrum. South Africa and California are leading proponents of Chenin Blanc as standalone wines, aside from Vouvray.

This is starting to read like a textbook! In keeping with the tenor of this column, here's how the 2008 Menage a Trois makes me feel: Like my favorite TV show is having a double episode tonight, shortly after I finish my third favorite meal and realize that school might be cancelled tomorrow because of the snow that I see falling from the dining room window. (Did I mention the roaring fire?)

2008 Honey Moon Viognier

California (Trader Joe's)

Instantly, you know this wine is your friend. It will do everything it can to cheer you up. In fact, with each sip, it delivers a bouquet of fresh flowers. There are more fragrant, complex and expensive Viogniers available, but this one is perfectly acceptable for a summer evening. It is not thin and one-dimensional, like many reasonably priced whites. The longer this wine is out of the fridge, the more open and generous it becomes. Kind of like the infamous "third date" with your new special friend.

Backstory: I was introduced to the Viognier grape at a wine tasting with neighbors. I had never encountered a wine so fragrant and reminiscent of my youthful gambols through the meadows of Kenosha County, Wisconsin, praising the arrival of spring and all its promises.

2007 Hogue Late Harvest White Riesling

Columbia Valley, Washington

Vintage after vintage, this is a reliably consistent mouthful of syrup. No effervescence like some Rieslings that are not quite ready for prime time. This wine was sampled just a few months after picking, stomping, stirring, storing, shipping and whatever else it takes to bring wine from the vine to the glass. (Dear Reader, if you played a part in any of these activities, I want to personally thank you. You've brought a smile to my face, and please know that I do not take your labor or supply chain management skills for granted.)

When I say "syrup," I really mean "honeyed peach and apricot flavors." The label provides fair warning. If you do not like sweet wine, then steer clear. Hogue produces a drier Riesling that you may find more acceptable. But must we always settle for what is familiar and comfortable? Assuming you enjoy the occasional chocolate nougat, or perhaps simply a dollop of sorbet between meals to cleanse the palate, why not parlay this indulgence to your white wine regimen? The Hogue Late Harvest White Riesling is a great place to start.

2006 Columbia-Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, Washington

Are you tired of citrus-dominated Chardonnays that tempt you to become a winemaker so you can offer the general public an affordable creamy-oaky-buttery style that was prevalent just a few years ago? Me, too. That's why I'm so taken with this release. More and more wineries are switching to a cleaner approach, which means aging in stainless steel barrels instead of the more costly oak barrels that impart the rich flavors and textures associated with "big" Chardonnays. So, it's getting harder to find these Chardonnays under ten dollars.

Part of me wants to haul cases of the 2006 Grand Estates door to door in a wagon, selling it at cost, just to share this incredible bargain with others. Another part of me just wants to keep drinking it and marveling at how certain producers can offer such huge quantities of wonderful wine at such a reasonable price. The same holds true for the Grande Estates Merlot and Cabernet. I wish oil companies would adopt the Columbia-Crest business model...

If you're a smooth, full-bodied, sun-drenched Chardonnay lover, buy all of this wine that your budget allows. I can't wait to see if the 2007 is as good as the 2006.

2006 Columbia-Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine

Washington: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon

This new blend from the giant Columbia-Crest winery takes you by the hand and says, "Let me show you Vineyard 10. Don't worry about the other nine - they were just for research. I think we nailed a soft, fruity, well-balanced patio pleaser. Do you agree?" Oddly enough, I had those very words on the tip of my tongue. I would add "fragrant, silky and more-than-one-dimensional." Turning to the back label, I discover that I could have also added "flavors of apple, pear and melon."

The more I nip, the more I want to wander through Vineyard 10 and meet the winemaking team. Why did they choose these particular grapes, and how did they arrive at the final percentages of each? Did this go on for years? Were focus groups utilized? While awaiting those answers, I tested a glass with dinner on two consecutive nights: grilled chicken burgers and baked lake trout. The soft, silky, fruity, fragrant patio pleaser (featuring aromas of apple, pear and melon) complemented the food, but was not elevated by it. Therefore, I would recommend pairing this wine simply with a glass and a mouth.

This is a very intriguing wine for the price. If you only have six dollars plus tax - and all your bills for the month have been paid, your family provided for, and you know where your next meal is coming from - grab it by the neck and take it to the nearest cash register.

2006 Cline Viognier

California

“Subtle” takes center stage with this wine. And that's a good thing. Viognier quite often is a floral blast. Cline downplays the flowers, perhaps recognizing that the overarching goal is not to attract bees, but buyers. If you like Chardonnay or Riesling, you may find this a refreshing bridge between the two. And yet, the more I sip, the more the Viognier manifests itself.

I found the 2005 vintage just as delicious, but sweeter. If you are reading this and had anything to do with producing Cline Viognier in this century, please drop me a line with your insights. I want to know how your company can make “subtle” so appealing.

The label promises “peaches, apricots, floral and citrus notes.” My wife and I had a sip-off to see if we concurred with the copywriter. We both agreed on floral, but could not decipher citrus. We were split on the fruits: she, peach; me, apricot. But does it really matter? It's soft, silky and extremely drinkable. As we have just proven.