Welcome to joefumo.com
(visit one more page than you normally would)
Wine Reviews
"Under Ten, With Tax"
Every
wine reviewed was purchased for $10 or less, including Wisconsin tax.
Some were on sale, but none of them received a case discount. All wines
have some merit and are worth considering. I will not post reviews of
mediocre wines because life is too short. Most
wines are widely available. However, I have flagged a few that are exclusive to Trader Joe's and Costco. If you like the lively writing style of these reviews, please take a moment to check out my two humorous fiction collections.
Red Wines
You can't go wrong with these
2010 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel
2009 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja
2009 Menage a Trois
2009 Epicuro Aglianico Beneventano
2009 Feudo Arancio Stemmari Nero D'Avola
2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Conquista Oak Cask Malbec
2008 Renwood Syrah
2008 Pillar Box Red
2008 Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Ravenswood Zinfandel
2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz
2008 Kirkland Signature Merlot
2008 Alamos Malbec
2008 Red Truck
2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah
2007 Snap Dragon Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Coppola Rosso
2007 Red Diamond Merlot
2007 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Casa LaJoya Gran Reserve Merlot
2007 Trentatre Rosso
2006 Gnarly Head Cabernet
2006 Columbia-Crest Grande Estates Cabernet
You can't go wrong with these
I have found Little Penguin, Yellow Tail and Columbia Crest Two Vines consistently to be the best wines for about seven dollars a bottle. Little Penguin and Yellow Tail, in my opinion, are the most flavorful and well-structured of the mass-produced Australian wines. Little Penguin reds tend to have a bit more body, while Yellow Tail reds are a bit juicier. The Rosemount Diamond Label and Lindemans Bin Series wines are consistently decent, though not exciting. With few exceptions, Alice White, Black Opal and other Aussies in this price range are thinner and not as rewarding.
The Columbia Crest Two Vines lineup, from Washington, gives you a completely different experience. They are sturdier and yet just as smooth as the Australians. The Shiraz is the shining star from this label. They also make a juicy blend called Vineyard 10, a decent Merlot-Cabernet and an acceptable Merlot. I don't believe I've tried their Cabernet, but the night is young and the liquor stores are still open.
2010 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel
Lodi, California
I feel so inadequate. I cannot properly convey in words how much I enjoy a smooth, balanced, well-structured Zinfandel that fills the mouth with an explosion of fruit. I imagine it's like a woman who receives a bouquet of flowers and says, "Thanks so much, dear. They're lovely." She cannot possibly articulate how she really feels inside.
Nor can I. If that means I have a feminine side, what the heck? There are worse things in life. Like paying two dollars more for a wine that disappoints the palette.
Lest I forget, the wine label promises a core of rich, dark berry flavors with layers of spice, plum, pepper and vanilla balanced by a light hint of toasted oak. But you already suspected that, right?
2009 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja
Paso Robles, California: Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Zinfandel-Syrah (Trader Joe's)
Delicious. Juicy. Fruity. Fresh. Charming. Delectable. Mellifluous. Thrilling. Happy. Smile. Cheap.
2009 Menage a Trois
California Red Wine
At least once a year, I manage to try a bottle of this smooth, well-balanced red. However, I never found enough to shout about until the 2009 vintage. It’s so juicy, you’ll forget you’re drinking 13.5% alcohol by volume. Which is fine if you’re at home writing a wine review, but not if you’re an astronaut on a space walk. Or trying out your new Glock at a shooting range.
Menage a Trois, as I understand it, means an orgy of zinfandel, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Like the orgies you may be more familiar with, each partner works together seamlessly to deliver consistent joy and surprise. Zinfandel offers its spice, merlot its suppleness and cabernet enough muscle to keep the party going.
Footnote: My wife bought this for me. If she knew what I was doing with it, I’m sure she would have left it on the shelf.
2009 Epicuro Anglianico Beneventano
Italy (Trader Joe's)
I don’t know what grape or region this wine comes from, but with each mouthful I seem to care less. Unlike many Italian reds I’ve tried, this one does not conjure up layers of soil and history. It’s rather graceful. Like a ballerina in velvet slippers accented with ribbons. “Joe, put the bottle down and get some fresh air,” I tell myself.
But I resist because I am speaking from the heart. If I spoke from the label, I would say: “This wine shows intense blackberry and cherry notes harmoniously exalted by a light spicy background.” That’s an Italian copywriter for you. An Italian peasant might say: “Drinks down real smooth, no? Reminds me of ballerina leaping across stage. Effortless. Graceful. Like she’s off to nibble on blackberry and cherry with boy friend. He like more muscular wine, taste like dirt. But he do anything for ballerina gal friend.”
This just in: Aglianico is a black-skinned red wine grape native to southern Italy, according to the first web site I stumbled upon. The 2009 Epicuro is from the Campania region, situated between Rome and the boot that appears to be kicking Sicily.
2009 Feudo Arancio Stemmari Nero D'Avola
Sicily
Nero D'Avola is a Sicilian grape that produces a dark, concentrated and somewhat earthy wine that is refreshingly different from other wines I have tried. A little spicy, but at the same time silky smooth. This is a solid, well-crafted red that has no apparent weaknesses. It doesn't knock you out of your chair with astonishment; it keeps you in your chair wishing this wine had no calories or consequences.
The Feudo Arancio is quite charming on its own. In fact, very charming. The bottle was quickly disappearing before I had the presence of mind to cork it for the night. Three days after opening the bottle (and sealing it properly), it lost none of its freshness or charm. Way to go, Sicily!
2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Bright, vibrant, juicy. That’s 18 characters, not including spaces or punctuation. I’m tempted to say it’s as satisfying as an $18 cabernet, but that would quite possibly be stretching the truth. Cabs in that price range tend to be sturdier and full of surprises. I knew a $7 California cab would be closer to bright-vibrant-juicy than sturdy-surprising. Like the Redtree Petite Sirah, this wine is extremely fresh. No particular berries or aromas present themselves for a roll call, nor does the label identify any. So, dear reader, you will have to trust me that your hard-earned dollars will be wisely spent on the 2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon. I have a real affinity for those who earn dollars the hard way, and I would not risk this special bond with carefree advice.
2009 Conquista Oak Cask Malbec
Argentina
If "oak cask" is part of a wine's name, you should probably go ahead and buy it. With the Conquista, I'm glad I did because oak adds enough oomph for me to highly recommend it. In fact, it’s so rich that once inside the mouth, there is nowhere for this wine to hide. The label says it was aged for six months in oak casks, but it seems like eight to me.
The label also mentions layers of smoke, cocoa and silky tannins. I can vouch for smoke and silk, but I'll leave it to my devoted readers to isolate cocoa. If anyone does, please tell me where the cocoa resides and how I can find it. Regardless, this is an extremely satisfying red wine. Not all Malbecs under $10 will so agreeably fill your mouth from cheek to cheek and from roof to jaw.
2008 Renwood Syrah
Sierra Foothills, California
I have never arm wrestled a wine until now. Usually I’m content to drink wine and – if it’s under ten dollars with tax – quickly decide whether to recommend it to my hordes of readers. The 2008 Renwood Syrah presented a problem at first. It’s not as muscular as the reds I prefer. But there’s a certain vibrancy. A “spring in its step,” if you will, and that’s most welcome on this frigid Wisconsin evening. I like every other sip. Normally this low percentage of excitement would stop me from giving it two nostrils up, but I realize that if I have as many disciples as I like to believe, some may prefer a thinner style of Syrah than I do.
I am now several ounces into this wine and we are no longer arm wrestling. We are enjoying one another’s company. The juice is warming my thorax and I’ve reached the point in this review where I feel obligated to describe the flavors. The only one that comes to mind is strawberry. It may not, in fact, be strawberry, as I have been wrong before (e.g., six unpublished novels). The label offers no help, merely claiming that it’s a “full-bodied wine that pairs well with beef, duck, lamb and other rich foods.” I am about to try this wine with baked salmon, so let’s see if this improves the overall quaffing experience.
Cyberspace drum roll… Eh? Maybe a little fuller. I have another bottle in the cellar. If it happens to accompany beef, duck or lamb, I will report my findings.
2008 Pillar Box Red
Padthaway, Australia: Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot
As a former math major in college (one semester: C in Trigonometry, D in Calculus), I am obsessed with wine blends. I study the percentages of each grape, searching for a rationale. How did the winemaker decide on the perfect combination? Through all-night debates with the owners? Or were the percentages revealed only after the owners approved the final sample for production?
I believe the winemaker nailed it with this blend of 66% Shiraz, 25% Cab and 9% Merlot. In a way, it reminds me of the majesty of thick, quilted clouds rapidly passing across a full moon on a quiet night. You could say the clouds offer 66% of the entertainment, the moon 25% and the stillness 9%. Tinker with any one number and the majesty is diluted.
Like all previous and future editions of Pillar Box Red, I found the 2008 enormously satisfying. It is a wine of happy contrasts. Juicy, yet sturdy. Silky, yet structured. High-classed, yet priced to appear in a wine column called “Under Ten, With Tax.”
2008 Ravenswood Zinfandel
Vintner's Blend, California
There is no good reason to keep this middle-of-the-road, nice-priced wine out of your shopping cart. I found the label's three key descriptors to be devastatingly accurate: (1) approachable style, (2) bright, and (3) rich.
I'm pressed for time tonight, so I will let the Ravenswood marketing staff speak for me. Besides, there's not more to add -- except that it makes me cheerful and a bit smug, to be honest. Smugness descends on me when I feel like I got away with something. I often look over my shoulder when I enjoy such an approachable, bright and rich wine for under $10, including tax.
Rex-Goliath Cabernet Sauvignon (no vintage)
California, purchased and sipped in May 2010
Disclaimer: I am writing this in the height of allergy season. Flowering trees and other evil lifeforms have clogged my sinuses, leaving a wine's impressions "on the nose" anybody's guess.
What comes through crystal clear, though, is a delightfully fresh, medium-strength, lip-smacking red wine. I beg to differ with the label's promise that this is a "hearty" cab. To me, hearty is a running back gaining 12 yards wide right and delivering a helmet to the oncoming linebacker. This wine breaks a hole up the middle for a gain of seven. Not bad, considering it cost $6.99. Is it "dark and intense?" Definitely dark, since I can barely see my thumb wriggling for attention under the glass. And not so much intense as brimming with confidence.
On the other hand, I agree that the Rex-Goliath cab is "long on fruit and short on attitude." If I can endorse this wine while furiously rubbing my eyes and disturbing the neighbors every time I clear my nostrils, imagine how much I'll enjoy it during the summer, autumn or winter!
2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz
McLaren Vale, Australia
What delicious flavors am I savoring? I failed to discern them last night, so I thought I'd try again tonight. I'm stumped! At times like this, I wish I could pour a few drops into a Wine Reviewer's Assistant device and instantly have the answer. I'm pretending to do that now, as I write this. The device tells me: "Cherry on lead guitar, with blackberry bass lines accompanied by peppery drum fills, for heaven's sake! What kind of a wine reviewer are you?" (I'm testing the British female with a condescending tone.)
Whatever fruits are trapped in this bottle, they are lush, ripe and ready to please. A thick, fleshy structure allows them to shine. This wine is obviously delighted to be part of my dinner (vegetarian sub from Jimmy John's, est. 1983.) The label does not reveal any details about the grapes. However, it did say the Stump Jump is an Australian plough that can jump over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees. I always wondered what jumped over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees...
2008 Kirkland Signature Merlot
Columbia Valley, Washington (Costco)
Highly recommended if you prefer a wine that fills your mouth to the point where talking becomes problematic. True, all wine "fills the mouth" if you put enough inside it. This one feels like the mouth is full when, in fact, it's only half full. Logic says it should cost twice as much as a thinner wine, but you're wrong. This one set me back $7.99 plus tax. Gotta love Costco's business model!
The 2008 Merlot is so satisfying that I don't care which fruits or other flavors are busy making me smug. I will not even tiptoe from the living room couch to the adjoining dining room (someday I'll have a great room) to read the label. It's not that I'm lazy; I just don't want you to focus on a particular berry or spice. That will only delay your trip to Costco.
2008 Alamos Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
Will you accept my apology for not reviewing this wine sooner? It is satisfying vintage after vintage. The 2008 is a typical offering: broad-shouldered, mouth-watering, mysterious and, most importantly, a good value. No fruit rises to the surface, so one cannot simultaneously smile and shout "Boysenberries!" as if solving a Holmes/Watson mystery in foggy London Town. The label only reveals "balanced and full-flavored." No need to go on and on. Balanced, full-flavored and $7.98 on sale are pretty compelling reasons to recommend Alamos Malbec.
2008 Red Truck
California: Syrah-Petite Sirah-Cabernet Franc-Petite Verdot
Thickberry. There, it's finally off my chest. I have continually struggled to find ways to describe flavorful red wine when I cannot pin down a specific berry. The 2008 Red Truck blend of four thickberry grapes has an earthiness that perfectly accompanies lasagna. In fact, it makes lasagna sing an aria in which the soprano signals the tenor hither for on-stage tomfoolerly. Know what I'm saying?
Red Truck consistently delivers fine value with each new release. I challenge you to taste the 2008 or any other vintage and not mutter, "I made a good decision, gosh darn it! I'm proud of myself." I have muttered these very lines many times since I first discovered Red Truck.
2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah
California
You could do worse. Much worse. You could also do better, but not much better at this price ($8 on sale). To put it another way, there’s no need to run out to buy this wine, but it’s definitely worth a brisk walk. If it’s absent from the shelves when you arrive, don’t worry; you’ll live another day. On the other hand, if you find this wine on sale, do not think twice about taking home a bottle. Or two.
If you’ve read this far, you might want to know what the 2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah actually tastes like, for heaven’s sake. I will reward your patience by saying that it fills the mouth with a thick, satisfying gob of syrupy fruit. You’ll find that with any Petite Sirah because it’s in the gene pool. The label speaks of “black fruit flavors,” and that’s all I can discern. Each sip is as surprising as it is satisfying. Not as complex as some other bold reds, but it’s perfect for a Monday night with a grilled burger topped with a slice of Havarti and a side of mac ‘n cheese.
2007 Snap Dragon Cabernet Sauvignon
California
More often than not, if a wine label promises "deep flavors of cherry, blackberry and spice with a hint of currant and smooth tannins," I'm on board. I agree with the description, but would add "smooth, elegant and as satisfying as holding someone's hand on the way into and out of the cinema."
Although I wouldn't state this on the label, I could go a step further and say the 2007 Snap Dragon Cab makes me feel like my football team just won by 10 points, or my basketball team won by seven points, or my baseball team won by three runs, or my soccer team won by two goals. Not huge margins, but very comfortable.
2007 Coppola Rosso
California: Zinfandel-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon
Proprietor Francis Ford Coppola claims this is a wine for everyday life. He's right. There is nothing exciting about the 2007 Rosso, or any other vintage for that matter. However, you could pick many lesser wines for this price point ($6.79 on sale). Dear readers, know that for every wine reviewed on this site, I drink hundreds of bottles that do not make it to print. Well, maybe not hundreds. More like six or seven. These rejects are too thin and one-dimensional to recommend. This one is half a step above, with its zinfandel-driven zing. Just enough spice to keep your interest. And it has decent depth. Think of it as a 2.5 star romantic comedy film -- satisfying, but not a classic worthy of preserving in the Library of Congress. Certainly not "Caddyshack" or "Stripes."
2007 Red Diamond Merlot
Washington State
A fruitier, juicier, more festive wine is difficult to imagine. It's not a full-throated Napa or a fleshy Chilean Merlot. You might say it's their second cousin. Or I might. You might also say (or I might) that it's a mustached uncle of an Australian mass-produced Merlot. Pay an extra two dollars for Red Diamond. Your throat will thank you. For those who want to know what this wine tastes like, I will defer to the label: "A polished wine with softly-spiced black cherry, berry and fruit flavors." No qualms there, except I was taught that adverbs (e.g., softly) do not require a hyphen.
2007 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon
Washington State
Some day I will visit Paterson, Washington, where I will proceed to track down the team behind Red Diamond’s wines and observe how they’re able to bottle perfection at the Under Ten With Tax price point. Vintage after vintage, their Cabs and Merlots are consistent bargains.
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely on the juicy side, yet it’s not as light as most mass-produced labels. There’s a level of excitement with Red Diamond that simply will not quit. No matter how many gallons I drink, each new sip is delightfully surprising. Most Washington reds that I’ve tried have this mysterious quality. I almost don’t want to know what I’m tasting, but invariably I turn to the back label and see what the team feels it has produced. In this case, it’s “layers of berry, cherry and toasty oak flavors.” Mmmmmm. I’ll drink to that!
2007 Casa LaJoya Gran Reserve Merlot
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Fire-roasted gummy bears on the nose, supported by gorgeous layers of rhubarb cobbler, and finishing with intense hints of a Dominican Republic cigar harvest. I'm kidding, but hopefully you have a general idea of this earthy, spicy, full-throated Merlot. The good Chilean Merlots I've had resemble Cabernet Sauvignon with their soil-happy essence. This wine softened considerably with grilled baby back spare ribs, settling into a more traditional California-style Merlot. With or without food, you can't go wrong.
2007 Trentatre Rosso
Italy: Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Montepulciano (Trader Joe's)
The 2007 Trentatre Rosso gives me that distinctive "I'm drinking Italian wine" sensation. The soil of The Old Country™ is calling me through this semi-full-bodied wine. You know when you're painting a room and you need a ladder for a little strip that's just out of reach? A full-size ladder is overkill, but a two-rung step stool is too short and dangerous if you step on the top. A four-rung step stool, however, is perfect for the job if you step on Rung 2. That pretty much sums up this wine. Ideal to the task at hand -- in this case, enjoying a red blend for a modest sum.
I anticipate your question: "Nice analogy, Joe, but what does it taste like?" My reply: Fragrant to the nose, cherry-esque in the mouth, silky in the throat. My wife said it tastes like cough syrup. She's right. It does have a Robitussin® essence. Though not in a bad way. The label says it was aged in oak for six months. I would have preferred seven or eight, but if that would cause the price to rise, I'm okay with six.
2006 Gnarly Head Cabernet
California
I like this wine so much that I walked from the living room to the dining room to fetch a pen and notebook -- the tools I used to write this review. I don't do that for wines that are merely sippable or quaint. It must have a richness beyond that of the three-minute pop song. This one has two guitar solos and a keyboard solo (think Deep Purple's "Maybe I'm a Leo" from the Machine Head album). Since no fruit or flavor screamed for my attention, I asked my wife to pass judgment on the eight wine label descriptors.
Aromas: Blackberries (yes). Cedar (yes). Vanilla (yes). Cigar box (she has never taken the time to shove her face in a cigar box).
Palate: Rich, juicy cherries (yes). Blueberries (yes). Cocoa (not!).
2006 Columbia-Crest Grande Estates Cabernet
Columbia Valley, Washington
A light, juicy white wine at a reasonable price is often called a “patio pounder.” Presumably, the quality/price ratio is so absurd that you're compelled to invite neighbors to your patio until they stumble home. Since I don't have a patio, I searched extensively for a red wine equivalent, and I found it. This 2006 cab is my new “armchair annihilator.”
There's no better way to describe this succulent cab. Look up “fruit forward” in your wine encyclopedia and you'll see this label smiling back. My early schooling taught me that good cabs had to be earthy and their flavors subliminal. You weren't supposed to grin when you took your first sip. The wine had to get to know you before gradually revealing its true character. Like a house cat. This cab doesn't apologize for its freshness. It's a twelve-year-old girl practicing cartwheels in the back yard.
You will find hints of smokiness and depth, but don't get too carried away. This wine is here to make you feel sinful at having found such a bargain - and grateful that you have an armchair from which to annihilate it.
You can't go wrong with these
2010 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel
2009 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja
2009 Menage a Trois
2009 Epicuro Aglianico Beneventano
2009 Feudo Arancio Stemmari Nero D'Avola
2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Conquista Oak Cask Malbec
2008 Renwood Syrah
2008 Pillar Box Red
2008 Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Ravenswood Zinfandel
2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz
2008 Kirkland Signature Merlot
2008 Alamos Malbec
2008 Red Truck
2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah
2007 Snap Dragon Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Coppola Rosso
2007 Red Diamond Merlot
2007 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Casa LaJoya Gran Reserve Merlot
2007 Trentatre Rosso
2006 Gnarly Head Cabernet
2006 Columbia-Crest Grande Estates Cabernet
You can't go wrong with these
I have found Little Penguin, Yellow Tail and Columbia Crest Two Vines consistently to be the best wines for about seven dollars a bottle. Little Penguin and Yellow Tail, in my opinion, are the most flavorful and well-structured of the mass-produced Australian wines. Little Penguin reds tend to have a bit more body, while Yellow Tail reds are a bit juicier. The Rosemount Diamond Label and Lindemans Bin Series wines are consistently decent, though not exciting. With few exceptions, Alice White, Black Opal and other Aussies in this price range are thinner and not as rewarding.
The Columbia Crest Two Vines lineup, from Washington, gives you a completely different experience. They are sturdier and yet just as smooth as the Australians. The Shiraz is the shining star from this label. They also make a juicy blend called Vineyard 10, a decent Merlot-Cabernet and an acceptable Merlot. I don't believe I've tried their Cabernet, but the night is young and the liquor stores are still open.
2010 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel
Lodi, California
I feel so inadequate. I cannot properly convey in words how much I enjoy a smooth, balanced, well-structured Zinfandel that fills the mouth with an explosion of fruit. I imagine it's like a woman who receives a bouquet of flowers and says, "Thanks so much, dear. They're lovely." She cannot possibly articulate how she really feels inside.
Nor can I. If that means I have a feminine side, what the heck? There are worse things in life. Like paying two dollars more for a wine that disappoints the palette.
Lest I forget, the wine label promises a core of rich, dark berry flavors with layers of spice, plum, pepper and vanilla balanced by a light hint of toasted oak. But you already suspected that, right?
2009 Tres Pinos Tierra Roja
Paso Robles, California: Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Zinfandel-Syrah (Trader Joe's)
Delicious. Juicy. Fruity. Fresh. Charming. Delectable. Mellifluous. Thrilling. Happy. Smile. Cheap.
2009 Menage a Trois
California Red Wine
At least once a year, I manage to try a bottle of this smooth, well-balanced red. However, I never found enough to shout about until the 2009 vintage. It’s so juicy, you’ll forget you’re drinking 13.5% alcohol by volume. Which is fine if you’re at home writing a wine review, but not if you’re an astronaut on a space walk. Or trying out your new Glock at a shooting range.
Menage a Trois, as I understand it, means an orgy of zinfandel, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Like the orgies you may be more familiar with, each partner works together seamlessly to deliver consistent joy and surprise. Zinfandel offers its spice, merlot its suppleness and cabernet enough muscle to keep the party going.
Footnote: My wife bought this for me. If she knew what I was doing with it, I’m sure she would have left it on the shelf.
2009 Epicuro Anglianico Beneventano
Italy (Trader Joe's)
I don’t know what grape or region this wine comes from, but with each mouthful I seem to care less. Unlike many Italian reds I’ve tried, this one does not conjure up layers of soil and history. It’s rather graceful. Like a ballerina in velvet slippers accented with ribbons. “Joe, put the bottle down and get some fresh air,” I tell myself.
But I resist because I am speaking from the heart. If I spoke from the label, I would say: “This wine shows intense blackberry and cherry notes harmoniously exalted by a light spicy background.” That’s an Italian copywriter for you. An Italian peasant might say: “Drinks down real smooth, no? Reminds me of ballerina leaping across stage. Effortless. Graceful. Like she’s off to nibble on blackberry and cherry with boy friend. He like more muscular wine, taste like dirt. But he do anything for ballerina gal friend.”
This just in: Aglianico is a black-skinned red wine grape native to southern Italy, according to the first web site I stumbled upon. The 2009 Epicuro is from the Campania region, situated between Rome and the boot that appears to be kicking Sicily.
2009 Feudo Arancio Stemmari Nero D'Avola
Sicily
Nero D'Avola is a Sicilian grape that produces a dark, concentrated and somewhat earthy wine that is refreshingly different from other wines I have tried. A little spicy, but at the same time silky smooth. This is a solid, well-crafted red that has no apparent weaknesses. It doesn't knock you out of your chair with astonishment; it keeps you in your chair wishing this wine had no calories or consequences.
The Feudo Arancio is quite charming on its own. In fact, very charming. The bottle was quickly disappearing before I had the presence of mind to cork it for the night. Three days after opening the bottle (and sealing it properly), it lost none of its freshness or charm. Way to go, Sicily!
2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Bright, vibrant, juicy. That’s 18 characters, not including spaces or punctuation. I’m tempted to say it’s as satisfying as an $18 cabernet, but that would quite possibly be stretching the truth. Cabs in that price range tend to be sturdier and full of surprises. I knew a $7 California cab would be closer to bright-vibrant-juicy than sturdy-surprising. Like the Redtree Petite Sirah, this wine is extremely fresh. No particular berries or aromas present themselves for a roll call, nor does the label identify any. So, dear reader, you will have to trust me that your hard-earned dollars will be wisely spent on the 2009 Redtree Cabernet Sauvignon. I have a real affinity for those who earn dollars the hard way, and I would not risk this special bond with carefree advice.
2009 Conquista Oak Cask Malbec
Argentina
If "oak cask" is part of a wine's name, you should probably go ahead and buy it. With the Conquista, I'm glad I did because oak adds enough oomph for me to highly recommend it. In fact, it’s so rich that once inside the mouth, there is nowhere for this wine to hide. The label says it was aged for six months in oak casks, but it seems like eight to me.
The label also mentions layers of smoke, cocoa and silky tannins. I can vouch for smoke and silk, but I'll leave it to my devoted readers to isolate cocoa. If anyone does, please tell me where the cocoa resides and how I can find it. Regardless, this is an extremely satisfying red wine. Not all Malbecs under $10 will so agreeably fill your mouth from cheek to cheek and from roof to jaw.
2008 Renwood Syrah
Sierra Foothills, California
I have never arm wrestled a wine until now. Usually I’m content to drink wine and – if it’s under ten dollars with tax – quickly decide whether to recommend it to my hordes of readers. The 2008 Renwood Syrah presented a problem at first. It’s not as muscular as the reds I prefer. But there’s a certain vibrancy. A “spring in its step,” if you will, and that’s most welcome on this frigid Wisconsin evening. I like every other sip. Normally this low percentage of excitement would stop me from giving it two nostrils up, but I realize that if I have as many disciples as I like to believe, some may prefer a thinner style of Syrah than I do.
I am now several ounces into this wine and we are no longer arm wrestling. We are enjoying one another’s company. The juice is warming my thorax and I’ve reached the point in this review where I feel obligated to describe the flavors. The only one that comes to mind is strawberry. It may not, in fact, be strawberry, as I have been wrong before (e.g., six unpublished novels). The label offers no help, merely claiming that it’s a “full-bodied wine that pairs well with beef, duck, lamb and other rich foods.” I am about to try this wine with baked salmon, so let’s see if this improves the overall quaffing experience.
Cyberspace drum roll… Eh? Maybe a little fuller. I have another bottle in the cellar. If it happens to accompany beef, duck or lamb, I will report my findings.
2008 Pillar Box Red
Padthaway, Australia: Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot
As a former math major in college (one semester: C in Trigonometry, D in Calculus), I am obsessed with wine blends. I study the percentages of each grape, searching for a rationale. How did the winemaker decide on the perfect combination? Through all-night debates with the owners? Or were the percentages revealed only after the owners approved the final sample for production?
I believe the winemaker nailed it with this blend of 66% Shiraz, 25% Cab and 9% Merlot. In a way, it reminds me of the majesty of thick, quilted clouds rapidly passing across a full moon on a quiet night. You could say the clouds offer 66% of the entertainment, the moon 25% and the stillness 9%. Tinker with any one number and the majesty is diluted.
Like all previous and future editions of Pillar Box Red, I found the 2008 enormously satisfying. It is a wine of happy contrasts. Juicy, yet sturdy. Silky, yet structured. High-classed, yet priced to appear in a wine column called “Under Ten, With Tax.”
2008 Ravenswood Zinfandel
Vintner's Blend, California
There is no good reason to keep this middle-of-the-road, nice-priced wine out of your shopping cart. I found the label's three key descriptors to be devastatingly accurate: (1) approachable style, (2) bright, and (3) rich.
I'm pressed for time tonight, so I will let the Ravenswood marketing staff speak for me. Besides, there's not more to add -- except that it makes me cheerful and a bit smug, to be honest. Smugness descends on me when I feel like I got away with something. I often look over my shoulder when I enjoy such an approachable, bright and rich wine for under $10, including tax.
Rex-Goliath Cabernet Sauvignon (no vintage)
California, purchased and sipped in May 2010
Disclaimer: I am writing this in the height of allergy season. Flowering trees and other evil lifeforms have clogged my sinuses, leaving a wine's impressions "on the nose" anybody's guess.
What comes through crystal clear, though, is a delightfully fresh, medium-strength, lip-smacking red wine. I beg to differ with the label's promise that this is a "hearty" cab. To me, hearty is a running back gaining 12 yards wide right and delivering a helmet to the oncoming linebacker. This wine breaks a hole up the middle for a gain of seven. Not bad, considering it cost $6.99. Is it "dark and intense?" Definitely dark, since I can barely see my thumb wriggling for attention under the glass. And not so much intense as brimming with confidence.
On the other hand, I agree that the Rex-Goliath cab is "long on fruit and short on attitude." If I can endorse this wine while furiously rubbing my eyes and disturbing the neighbors every time I clear my nostrils, imagine how much I'll enjoy it during the summer, autumn or winter!
2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz
McLaren Vale, Australia
What delicious flavors am I savoring? I failed to discern them last night, so I thought I'd try again tonight. I'm stumped! At times like this, I wish I could pour a few drops into a Wine Reviewer's Assistant device and instantly have the answer. I'm pretending to do that now, as I write this. The device tells me: "Cherry on lead guitar, with blackberry bass lines accompanied by peppery drum fills, for heaven's sake! What kind of a wine reviewer are you?" (I'm testing the British female with a condescending tone.)
Whatever fruits are trapped in this bottle, they are lush, ripe and ready to please. A thick, fleshy structure allows them to shine. This wine is obviously delighted to be part of my dinner (vegetarian sub from Jimmy John's, est. 1983.) The label does not reveal any details about the grapes. However, it did say the Stump Jump is an Australian plough that can jump over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees. I always wondered what jumped over the gnarled roots of Eucalyptus trees...
2008 Kirkland Signature Merlot
Columbia Valley, Washington (Costco)
Highly recommended if you prefer a wine that fills your mouth to the point where talking becomes problematic. True, all wine "fills the mouth" if you put enough inside it. This one feels like the mouth is full when, in fact, it's only half full. Logic says it should cost twice as much as a thinner wine, but you're wrong. This one set me back $7.99 plus tax. Gotta love Costco's business model!
The 2008 Merlot is so satisfying that I don't care which fruits or other flavors are busy making me smug. I will not even tiptoe from the living room couch to the adjoining dining room (someday I'll have a great room) to read the label. It's not that I'm lazy; I just don't want you to focus on a particular berry or spice. That will only delay your trip to Costco.
2008 Alamos Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
Will you accept my apology for not reviewing this wine sooner? It is satisfying vintage after vintage. The 2008 is a typical offering: broad-shouldered, mouth-watering, mysterious and, most importantly, a good value. No fruit rises to the surface, so one cannot simultaneously smile and shout "Boysenberries!" as if solving a Holmes/Watson mystery in foggy London Town. The label only reveals "balanced and full-flavored." No need to go on and on. Balanced, full-flavored and $7.98 on sale are pretty compelling reasons to recommend Alamos Malbec.
2008 Red Truck
California: Syrah-Petite Sirah-Cabernet Franc-Petite Verdot
Thickberry. There, it's finally off my chest. I have continually struggled to find ways to describe flavorful red wine when I cannot pin down a specific berry. The 2008 Red Truck blend of four thickberry grapes has an earthiness that perfectly accompanies lasagna. In fact, it makes lasagna sing an aria in which the soprano signals the tenor hither for on-stage tomfoolerly. Know what I'm saying?
Red Truck consistently delivers fine value with each new release. I challenge you to taste the 2008 or any other vintage and not mutter, "I made a good decision, gosh darn it! I'm proud of myself." I have muttered these very lines many times since I first discovered Red Truck.
2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah
California
You could do worse. Much worse. You could also do better, but not much better at this price ($8 on sale). To put it another way, there’s no need to run out to buy this wine, but it’s definitely worth a brisk walk. If it’s absent from the shelves when you arrive, don’t worry; you’ll live another day. On the other hand, if you find this wine on sale, do not think twice about taking home a bottle. Or two.
If you’ve read this far, you might want to know what the 2007 Ravenswood Petite Sirah actually tastes like, for heaven’s sake. I will reward your patience by saying that it fills the mouth with a thick, satisfying gob of syrupy fruit. You’ll find that with any Petite Sirah because it’s in the gene pool. The label speaks of “black fruit flavors,” and that’s all I can discern. Each sip is as surprising as it is satisfying. Not as complex as some other bold reds, but it’s perfect for a Monday night with a grilled burger topped with a slice of Havarti and a side of mac ‘n cheese.
2007 Snap Dragon Cabernet Sauvignon
California
More often than not, if a wine label promises "deep flavors of cherry, blackberry and spice with a hint of currant and smooth tannins," I'm on board. I agree with the description, but would add "smooth, elegant and as satisfying as holding someone's hand on the way into and out of the cinema."
Although I wouldn't state this on the label, I could go a step further and say the 2007 Snap Dragon Cab makes me feel like my football team just won by 10 points, or my basketball team won by seven points, or my baseball team won by three runs, or my soccer team won by two goals. Not huge margins, but very comfortable.
2007 Coppola Rosso
California: Zinfandel-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon
Proprietor Francis Ford Coppola claims this is a wine for everyday life. He's right. There is nothing exciting about the 2007 Rosso, or any other vintage for that matter. However, you could pick many lesser wines for this price point ($6.79 on sale). Dear readers, know that for every wine reviewed on this site, I drink hundreds of bottles that do not make it to print. Well, maybe not hundreds. More like six or seven. These rejects are too thin and one-dimensional to recommend. This one is half a step above, with its zinfandel-driven zing. Just enough spice to keep your interest. And it has decent depth. Think of it as a 2.5 star romantic comedy film -- satisfying, but not a classic worthy of preserving in the Library of Congress. Certainly not "Caddyshack" or "Stripes."
2007 Red Diamond Merlot
Washington State
A fruitier, juicier, more festive wine is difficult to imagine. It's not a full-throated Napa or a fleshy Chilean Merlot. You might say it's their second cousin. Or I might. You might also say (or I might) that it's a mustached uncle of an Australian mass-produced Merlot. Pay an extra two dollars for Red Diamond. Your throat will thank you. For those who want to know what this wine tastes like, I will defer to the label: "A polished wine with softly-spiced black cherry, berry and fruit flavors." No qualms there, except I was taught that adverbs (e.g., softly) do not require a hyphen.
2007 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon
Washington State
Some day I will visit Paterson, Washington, where I will proceed to track down the team behind Red Diamond’s wines and observe how they’re able to bottle perfection at the Under Ten With Tax price point. Vintage after vintage, their Cabs and Merlots are consistent bargains.
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely on the juicy side, yet it’s not as light as most mass-produced labels. There’s a level of excitement with Red Diamond that simply will not quit. No matter how many gallons I drink, each new sip is delightfully surprising. Most Washington reds that I’ve tried have this mysterious quality. I almost don’t want to know what I’m tasting, but invariably I turn to the back label and see what the team feels it has produced. In this case, it’s “layers of berry, cherry and toasty oak flavors.” Mmmmmm. I’ll drink to that!
2007 Casa LaJoya Gran Reserve Merlot
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Fire-roasted gummy bears on the nose, supported by gorgeous layers of rhubarb cobbler, and finishing with intense hints of a Dominican Republic cigar harvest. I'm kidding, but hopefully you have a general idea of this earthy, spicy, full-throated Merlot. The good Chilean Merlots I've had resemble Cabernet Sauvignon with their soil-happy essence. This wine softened considerably with grilled baby back spare ribs, settling into a more traditional California-style Merlot. With or without food, you can't go wrong.
2007 Trentatre Rosso
Italy: Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Montepulciano (Trader Joe's)
The 2007 Trentatre Rosso gives me that distinctive "I'm drinking Italian wine" sensation. The soil of The Old Country™ is calling me through this semi-full-bodied wine. You know when you're painting a room and you need a ladder for a little strip that's just out of reach? A full-size ladder is overkill, but a two-rung step stool is too short and dangerous if you step on the top. A four-rung step stool, however, is perfect for the job if you step on Rung 2. That pretty much sums up this wine. Ideal to the task at hand -- in this case, enjoying a red blend for a modest sum.
I anticipate your question: "Nice analogy, Joe, but what does it taste like?" My reply: Fragrant to the nose, cherry-esque in the mouth, silky in the throat. My wife said it tastes like cough syrup. She's right. It does have a Robitussin® essence. Though not in a bad way. The label says it was aged in oak for six months. I would have preferred seven or eight, but if that would cause the price to rise, I'm okay with six.
2006 Gnarly Head Cabernet
California
I like this wine so much that I walked from the living room to the dining room to fetch a pen and notebook -- the tools I used to write this review. I don't do that for wines that are merely sippable or quaint. It must have a richness beyond that of the three-minute pop song. This one has two guitar solos and a keyboard solo (think Deep Purple's "Maybe I'm a Leo" from the Machine Head album). Since no fruit or flavor screamed for my attention, I asked my wife to pass judgment on the eight wine label descriptors.
Aromas: Blackberries (yes). Cedar (yes). Vanilla (yes). Cigar box (she has never taken the time to shove her face in a cigar box).
Palate: Rich, juicy cherries (yes). Blueberries (yes). Cocoa (not!).
2006 Columbia-Crest Grande Estates Cabernet
Columbia Valley, Washington
A light, juicy white wine at a reasonable price is often called a “patio pounder.” Presumably, the quality/price ratio is so absurd that you're compelled to invite neighbors to your patio until they stumble home. Since I don't have a patio, I searched extensively for a red wine equivalent, and I found it. This 2006 cab is my new “armchair annihilator.”
There's no better way to describe this succulent cab. Look up “fruit forward” in your wine encyclopedia and you'll see this label smiling back. My early schooling taught me that good cabs had to be earthy and their flavors subliminal. You weren't supposed to grin when you took your first sip. The wine had to get to know you before gradually revealing its true character. Like a house cat. This cab doesn't apologize for its freshness. It's a twelve-year-old girl practicing cartwheels in the back yard.
You will find hints of smokiness and depth, but don't get too carried away. This wine is here to make you feel sinful at having found such a bargain - and grateful that you have an armchair from which to annihilate it.
White Wines
2010 Honey Moon Viognier
2010 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling
2009 Beringer Moscato
2009 Menage a Trois
2010 Honey Moon Viognier
California
Instantly, you know this wine is your friend. It will do everything it can to cheer you up. In fact, with each sip, it delivers a bouquet of fresh flowers. There are more fragrant, complex and expensive Viogniers available, but this one is perfectly acceptable for a summer evening. It is not thin and one-dimensional, like many reasonably priced whites. The longer this wine is out of the fridge, the more open and generous it becomes. Kind of like the infamous "third date" with your new special friend.
Backstory: I was introduced to the Viognier grape at a wine tasting with neighbors. I had never encountered a wine so fragrant and reminiscent of my youthful gambols through the meadows of Kenosha County, Wisconsin, praising the arrival of spring and all its promises.
2010 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling
Columbia Valley, Washington
Vintage after vintage, this is a reliably consistent mouthful of syrup. No effervescence like some Rieslings that are not quite ready for prime time. This wine was sampled just a few months after picking, stomping, stirring, storing, shipping and whatever else it takes to bring wine from the vine to the glass. (Dear Reader, if you played a part in any of these activities, I want to personally thank you. You've brought a smile to my face, and please know that I do not take your labor or supply chain management skills for granted.)
If you do not like sweet wines, steer clear of the Late Harvest Riesling. It's like they put a few drops of honey in each bottle before sealing it. I hope the security cameras never catch this. Hogue produces a drier Riesling that you may find more acceptable. I find it rather blah. This one, however, continues to delight. When the 2011 vintage is released, I'll simply overwrite this review because I know exactly what to expect.
2009 Beringer Moscato
California Collection
Somebody over there at Beringer World HQ deserves a raise for crafting a perfectly smooth, silky, delicious wine, pouring 750 glorious milliliters in each bottle, and sealing it with a cork so it won't spill en route to the grocery store chain -- where I was confronted with a buy/no buy decision. The yellow sale tag influenced me as much as my fondness for the occasional sweet white wine. Moscato is really the Muscat grape. If you've had Asti, the fizzy Italian wine favored by my mother, then you've had Muscat/Moscato. But this is a completely different experience.
I've enjoyed a few Moscatos from California, and they've all been in the same syrupy style. My Chardonnay-sipping wife will not go near the stuff (she also runs from Reisling and Viognier). I would characterize a California Moscato as one notch sweeter than your typical Reisling and half a notch sweeter than a Viognier. Let's face it, I'm a sucker for honeysuckle aromas and lush fruit flavors. I am anxious to return to the aforementioned grocery store chain and see if the yellow tags are still positioned below the 2009 Beringer Moscato. Yummmmm!
2009 Menage a Trois
California: Chardonnay-Moscato-Chenin Blanc
What a delightful white wine, dontcha know? It's cheery from the get-go. And fragrant, too, much like a Viogner. You may or may not know that Moscato is an in-your-face syrupy grape, while Chenin Blanc is best known as the grape behind Vouvray -- the Loire Valley white that offers a wide range on the dry-to-sweet spectrum. South Africa and California are leading proponents of Chenin Blanc as standalone wines, aside from Vouvray.
This is starting to read like a textbook! In keeping with the tenor of this column, here's how the 2008 Menage a Trois makes me feel: Like my favorite TV show is having a double episode tonight, shortly after I finish my third favorite meal and realize that school might be cancelled tomorrow because of the snow that I see falling from the dining room window. (Did I mention the roaring fire?)
2006 Columbia-Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, Washington
Are you tired of citrus-dominated Chardonnays that tempt you to become a winemaker so you can offer the general public an affordable creamy-oaky-buttery style that was prevalent just a few years ago? Me, too. That's why I'm so taken with this release. More and more wineries are switching to a cleaner approach, which means aging in stainless steel barrels instead of the more costly oak barrels that impart the rich flavors and textures associated with "big" Chardonnays. So, it's getting harder to find these Chardonnays under ten dollars.
Part of me wants to haul cases of the 2006 Grand Estates door to door in a wagon, selling it at cost, just to share this incredible bargain with others. Another part of me just wants to keep drinking it and marveling at how certain producers can offer such huge quantities of wonderful wine at such a reasonable price. The same holds true for the Grande Estates Merlot and Cabernet. I wish oil companies would adopt the Columbia-Crest business model...
If you're a smooth, full-bodied, sun-drenched Chardonnay lover, buy all of this wine that your budget allows. I can't wait to see if the 2007 is as good as the 2006.
2006 Columbia-Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine
Washington: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon
This new blend from the giant Columbia-Crest winery takes you by the hand and says, "Let me show you Vineyard 10. Don't worry about the other nine - they were just for research. I think we nailed a soft, fruity, well-balanced patio pleaser. Do you agree?" Oddly enough, I had those very words on the tip of my tongue. I would add "fragrant, silky and more-than-one-dimensional." Turning to the back label, I discover that I could have also added "flavors of apple, pear and melon."
The more I nip, the more I want to wander through Vineyard 10 and meet the winemaking team. Why did they choose these particular grapes, and how did they arrive at the final percentages of each? Did this go on for years? Were focus groups utilized? While awaiting those answers, I tested a glass with dinner on two consecutive nights: grilled chicken burgers and baked lake trout. The soft, silky, fruity, fragrant patio pleaser (featuring aromas of apple, pear and melon) complemented the food, but was not elevated by it. Therefore, I would recommend pairing this wine simply with a glass and a mouth.
This is a very intriguing wine for the price. If you only have six dollars plus tax - and all your bills for the month have been paid, your family provided for, and you know where your next meal is coming from - grab it by the neck and take it to the nearest cash register.
2010 Honey Moon Viognier
2010 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling
2009 Beringer Moscato
2009 Menage a Trois
2010 Honey Moon Viognier
California
Instantly, you know this wine is your friend. It will do everything it can to cheer you up. In fact, with each sip, it delivers a bouquet of fresh flowers. There are more fragrant, complex and expensive Viogniers available, but this one is perfectly acceptable for a summer evening. It is not thin and one-dimensional, like many reasonably priced whites. The longer this wine is out of the fridge, the more open and generous it becomes. Kind of like the infamous "third date" with your new special friend.
Backstory: I was introduced to the Viognier grape at a wine tasting with neighbors. I had never encountered a wine so fragrant and reminiscent of my youthful gambols through the meadows of Kenosha County, Wisconsin, praising the arrival of spring and all its promises.
2010 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling
Columbia Valley, Washington
Vintage after vintage, this is a reliably consistent mouthful of syrup. No effervescence like some Rieslings that are not quite ready for prime time. This wine was sampled just a few months after picking, stomping, stirring, storing, shipping and whatever else it takes to bring wine from the vine to the glass. (Dear Reader, if you played a part in any of these activities, I want to personally thank you. You've brought a smile to my face, and please know that I do not take your labor or supply chain management skills for granted.)
If you do not like sweet wines, steer clear of the Late Harvest Riesling. It's like they put a few drops of honey in each bottle before sealing it. I hope the security cameras never catch this. Hogue produces a drier Riesling that you may find more acceptable. I find it rather blah. This one, however, continues to delight. When the 2011 vintage is released, I'll simply overwrite this review because I know exactly what to expect.
2009 Beringer Moscato
California Collection
Somebody over there at Beringer World HQ deserves a raise for crafting a perfectly smooth, silky, delicious wine, pouring 750 glorious milliliters in each bottle, and sealing it with a cork so it won't spill en route to the grocery store chain -- where I was confronted with a buy/no buy decision. The yellow sale tag influenced me as much as my fondness for the occasional sweet white wine. Moscato is really the Muscat grape. If you've had Asti, the fizzy Italian wine favored by my mother, then you've had Muscat/Moscato. But this is a completely different experience.
I've enjoyed a few Moscatos from California, and they've all been in the same syrupy style. My Chardonnay-sipping wife will not go near the stuff (she also runs from Reisling and Viognier). I would characterize a California Moscato as one notch sweeter than your typical Reisling and half a notch sweeter than a Viognier. Let's face it, I'm a sucker for honeysuckle aromas and lush fruit flavors. I am anxious to return to the aforementioned grocery store chain and see if the yellow tags are still positioned below the 2009 Beringer Moscato. Yummmmm!
2009 Menage a Trois
California: Chardonnay-Moscato-Chenin Blanc
What a delightful white wine, dontcha know? It's cheery from the get-go. And fragrant, too, much like a Viogner. You may or may not know that Moscato is an in-your-face syrupy grape, while Chenin Blanc is best known as the grape behind Vouvray -- the Loire Valley white that offers a wide range on the dry-to-sweet spectrum. South Africa and California are leading proponents of Chenin Blanc as standalone wines, aside from Vouvray.
This is starting to read like a textbook! In keeping with the tenor of this column, here's how the 2008 Menage a Trois makes me feel: Like my favorite TV show is having a double episode tonight, shortly after I finish my third favorite meal and realize that school might be cancelled tomorrow because of the snow that I see falling from the dining room window. (Did I mention the roaring fire?)
2006 Columbia-Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, Washington
Are you tired of citrus-dominated Chardonnays that tempt you to become a winemaker so you can offer the general public an affordable creamy-oaky-buttery style that was prevalent just a few years ago? Me, too. That's why I'm so taken with this release. More and more wineries are switching to a cleaner approach, which means aging in stainless steel barrels instead of the more costly oak barrels that impart the rich flavors and textures associated with "big" Chardonnays. So, it's getting harder to find these Chardonnays under ten dollars.
Part of me wants to haul cases of the 2006 Grand Estates door to door in a wagon, selling it at cost, just to share this incredible bargain with others. Another part of me just wants to keep drinking it and marveling at how certain producers can offer such huge quantities of wonderful wine at such a reasonable price. The same holds true for the Grande Estates Merlot and Cabernet. I wish oil companies would adopt the Columbia-Crest business model...
If you're a smooth, full-bodied, sun-drenched Chardonnay lover, buy all of this wine that your budget allows. I can't wait to see if the 2007 is as good as the 2006.
2006 Columbia-Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine
Washington: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon
This new blend from the giant Columbia-Crest winery takes you by the hand and says, "Let me show you Vineyard 10. Don't worry about the other nine - they were just for research. I think we nailed a soft, fruity, well-balanced patio pleaser. Do you agree?" Oddly enough, I had those very words on the tip of my tongue. I would add "fragrant, silky and more-than-one-dimensional." Turning to the back label, I discover that I could have also added "flavors of apple, pear and melon."
The more I nip, the more I want to wander through Vineyard 10 and meet the winemaking team. Why did they choose these particular grapes, and how did they arrive at the final percentages of each? Did this go on for years? Were focus groups utilized? While awaiting those answers, I tested a glass with dinner on two consecutive nights: grilled chicken burgers and baked lake trout. The soft, silky, fruity, fragrant patio pleaser (featuring aromas of apple, pear and melon) complemented the food, but was not elevated by it. Therefore, I would recommend pairing this wine simply with a glass and a mouth.
This is a very intriguing wine for the price. If you only have six dollars plus tax - and all your bills for the month have been paid, your family provided for, and you know where your next meal is coming from - grab it by the neck and take it to the nearest cash register.
